Care & Authenticity

How to know what you're holding.

A real handloom saree behaves differently in your hands, in light, over time. Here's what to look for, and how to make sure it lasts.

FIVE WAYS TO TELL HANDLOOM FROM POWERLOOM

1. Look at the selvedge The selvedge is the finished edge of the saree - the long sides. On a handloom saree, the selvedge is slightly uneven. Threads may loop or pull gently at intervals. That irregularity is proof of hand-tension on the loom. Powerloom selvedges are perfectly uniform - machine-consistent, edge to edge.

2. Hold it to light Handloom fabric has natural variation in thread density. When held up to light, you'll see subtle differences - slightly thicker here, airier there. Powerloom fabric is completely uniform in density. Light passes through it evenly, like a printed sheet.

3. Check the weave at the border On a handloom saree, the border is woven into the body - the threads are continuous. On many powerloom imitations, the border is a separate strip attached to the body. Look closely at the join. If you can see a seam or a colour discontinuity, it's not handloom.

4. Feel the texture Handloom fabric has a tactile memory - it holds the weaver's tension. It may feel slightly coarser or more textured than machine-made fabric. That's not a flaw. That's the loom talking.

5. The pin holes Look along the selvedge edge closely - on a genuine handloom saree you'll find tiny, evenly spaced pin holes running along the border. These are made by the temple pins that hold the fabric taut on the loom during weaving. No powerloom saree has them. If you see pin holes, you're holding the real thing.

WHAT A GI TAG ACTUALLY TELLS YOU

A Geographical Indication (GI) tag is a government-issued certification that a product originates from a specific region - and meets the standards of that region's craft.

What it confirms:

  • The weave originated in its designated geography
  • The technique used meets documented standards
  • The weaver or producer is registered under the GI scheme

What it doesn't confirm:

  • That the specific piece was made by a master weaver
  • Quality beyond baseline standards
  • That you're paying a fair price

At Sootra Signatures, we note GI tags where they apply. But we also source non-GI pieces that are equally authentic because not every weaver is registered, and registration doesn't always follow craft.

CARE BY WEAVE TYPE

TUSSAR SILK

  • First 2–3 washes: dry clean only
  • After that: hand wash in cold water with mild detergent
  • Do not wring - press gently in a towel
  • Dry in shade, not direct sun
  • Store folded in muslin or cotton cloth

ORGANZA

  • Dry clean only - no exceptions
  • Do not fold at the pallu - zari creases permanently
  • Wrap in acid-free tissue before storing
  • Never iron directly on zari - use a cloth barrier
  • Keep away from moisture and humidity

MAHESHWARI SILK-COTTON

  • First wash: cold water, separately - natural dyes may bleed slightly
  • Hand wash in cold water thereafter, or dry clean
  • Do not soak
  • Dry in shade - natural dyes fade in direct sunlight
  • Iron on medium heat, reverse side

PATOLA

  • Dry clean only - no exceptions
  • Store folded lengthwise in original cotton wrap
  • Never fold at the pallu
  • Handle with dry hands - natural dyes are sensitive to moisture
  • Do not starch

GADWAL

  • Dry clean only
  • Do not starch - the cotton body has natural softness, starching will damage it
  • Store flat in muslin
  • Air occasionally - vintage textiles need to breathe
  • If the silk border feels stiff, a light steam (not iron) will restore drape

STUDIO EDIT (Powerloom)

  • Machine wash cold, gentle cycle
  • Do not bleach
  • Low iron
  • Tumble dry low or air dry

STORING YOUR SAREES

  • Always store in cotton or muslin - never plastic
  • Fold with the pallu on the outside so you can identify without unfolding
  • Refold along different lines every 6 months to prevent permanent crease marks
  • Place a neem leaf or cedar block nearby - natural moth repellent
  • Never store in direct sunlight or damp conditions

For zari sarees: wrap the zari sections in acid-free tissue before folding. Tarnished zari can often be restored with a dry, soft cloth — rub gently in one direction.

OUR SOURCING PROMISE

We will always tell you:

  • What the fabric is
  • How it was made - handloom or powerloom, clearly stated
  • Whether it carries a GI tag

We will never call a powerloom saree handloom. We will never list a piece we can't trace. 

If you ever have a question about a specific piece - its origin, its construction, its age - write to us. We'll tell you everything we know.